Monday, October 22, 2012
Angus trots along happily to a number of exhibitions. The Raphael exhibition in the Louvre, Hair and Trinkets in the Branly ( did you know that until a hundred years ago it used to be common to weave the hair of a dead family member into a ring or a bracelet ?), a new art gallery at the Porte de Pantin. However, an exhibition on Impressionism and Fashion is one cultural step too far. Long ago this ageing Calvinist worked out that anything that has the words creative dance, improvisational theatre or fashion in the title should be avoided. 'The font' makes a half hearted effort to chivvy me on - "You'll enjoy it " - before muttering something about travelling with a grizzly bear and giving up. Some visits are best undertaken alone. After an expensive cup of tea in Mariage Freres and an unscheduled trip into a butchers to ask about the melon de poulet Orloff in the shop window it's time to head off to the Scottish Pub.
For a moment Angus wonders what the French make of the sign on the front door that says '' Crivens awa ... and bile yer heed ye big mealie puddin ". The barman speaks French with a near impenetrable Kirkintilloch brogue. ' Bonjour Pal . Whi canna ger ya ? " He's happy to meet a fellow countryman.Soon the widescreen television is on, the Rugby channel tuned in and a pint of Bellhaven freshly poured. Angus is in heaven. Outside it rains. Barman and customer agree that it's as wet as Dunoon in February
Dinner in a restaurant with the unlikely name of Pamela PoPo. We're 'walk ins' but they quickly find us a table. Our French must be improving. The waiters treat us as equals , or if not as equals at least with limited disdain. Afterwards to La Perla to watch serious American students on a semester at the Sorbonne try to convince their visiting girlfriends that this is where the worlds best martinis are served. The cosmopolitan American girls , by and large, look unimpressed.
Scots smoked salmon in a fishmongers window. $65 a pound at todays exchange rate.